Karl Lagerfeld opens his Spring Summer 2017 installment for Parisian House, Chanel, with two fabulous CocoBots dressed in traditional tweed. Stepping out of Chanel Data Center, as per the Creative Director, the set is then robotically swamped by the Chanel brigade in a showcase of Lagerfeld’s understand of Coco and today’s modern woman. A mixture of traditional tweed and a rehashed version – one that looks particularly close to a computer’s circuit board, the cuts start held-back, sticking to usual formalities, before becoming brazen and taking on a few new cuts, styles and silhouettes to usher in a sense of skater and punk influence.
Colour swims between neutrals and pops of ocean and candyfloss. An array of multiple colour combinations also feature, paired with soft pastels in chiffons. Lace is noticeable as ‘an accessory’ to the skirt in certain aspects, with even shirts bellowing out from below jacket hems in waves of rippled fabric. There’s an introduction of a padded look – insulate much? – that adds a type of edge to aspects of the collections personality. A really great design touch is the irregular dose of braid detailing on some jackets – the pattern, much like a lace brocade, looks as though is was made with server wiring.
The collection flutters from a rather stiff on the hip gathering of old-world styles in a modern fabric and into a flow of gone-with-the-wind dresses and skirts and in a beautiful kaleidoscope. The traditional tweed jacket is never too far, and in instances is treated in a much softer fabric, giving it a less conformist structure, allowing it to swing in formation with the rest of the look and collection.
Generally speaking, the collection presents a type of intimate relationship with both time and technology. Karl’s relentless respect for Chanel’s signature trademark and his undisputed ability to translate creativity from paper to fabric, has him once again, producing a collection that is timeless in today’s world yet so far ahead in its history’s visions of its future. It’s eloquent, polite, fun, traditionalist, respectful, indulgent and completely tongue-in-cheek in the only way only Lagerfeld can conceive.
SIDEBAR: The matching caps – a street style way of fusing tradition with modernity. The shoes – strappy flats and pumps for the Chanel girl in summer, such easy wearing accessories that can support you through a long day. The bag – a cute little cyborg with big digital eyes throwing shade at the less fashionable. Zips for slits on dresses and skirts.