Something’s to be said for Sarah Burton’s link to Alexander McQueen. I put it that way, because I’m not sure how she is able to constantly deliver on his signature when his blessed spirit does not walk this earth no more.
The Paris Fashion Week serving was simply put: a reflection of a young girl’s transition from renegade to queen. Starting out as a snobbish punk into British garage bands wearing girly lace dresses with knee-high leather boots with studs, she slowly dances between acting grown with downs adorned with leather bustiers with studs. Her attitude towards her future is partly questions with leather looks sporting tight fitting jackets with zip details on the waist (a seasonal trend). She occasionally taps into her heritage with nuances of checkered quilt-like skirts, sometimes paired with pants, and always topped with well-cut jackets.
The suiting aesthetic means, in her maturity, she could possibly spend a day at an office – if she really wanted to – but we all know with her pairing of skater leather boots with Prairie empire-line dresses – it won’t last. One of my favourite earlier looks into her progression as a lady include the leather day-into-evening dress with a cross-body ruffle swimming from the bust to the hem. The soft addition of florals and lighter colours adds a somewhat softer dimension to her aesthetic and demeanour.
With her hair slicked back, tighter on the sides, she steps into maturity with more structured and tailored puff-shoulder-sleeve dresses, all bearing the empire line and draped over with a leather bustier with studs. The colours of rouge add a touch of regal glamour and the rouge evening wear graces the floor to add a touch of opulent goth. Embellishments, beads, diamonds and lace brocade add a sense of old-money to the last aspects of the collection – with the closing of the collection consisting of probably by far, one of the most singularly beautiful dresses of the season.
SIDEBAR: I’m living for the skirt over pants look. The bell-sleeve tops are top of the morning. Zipper details on jacket high-waists for flare. The over-sized ornate earrings are flavour-full – rich, tactile, opulent.